"Laissez les bon temps rouler!"
When babies are first brought home in The Big Easy, no matter if they're born to old money or new residents, the first thing they hear besides their mama's soothing voice is their papa settling into a big chair and putting on some kind of music. At least, that's how most folks figure. There's so much more going on under the deceptively laid-back surface.
New Orleans, Louisiana, is a vibrant kaleidoscope of culture and color that is unlike most other places in the United States. It is as unique a blend of peoples as the greater country it is a part of, though perhaps represents the collective better than any other city. The French initially settled there, back in 1718, before it was ceded to the Spanish in 1763. This was also around the period when Filipinos began to settle there as well, making up some of the earliest populations of Asian Americans. It became an important port city used to smuggle aid to the revolutionaries during the war in 1776, though it was briefly reverted to French rule just before the Louisiana Purchase in 1803.
Throughout its early years, New Orleans had a prominent place in the slave trade. So many were brought in from Africa to provide cheap labor that a law known as Code Noir had to be written in 1724 in order to mass-institutionalize these Africans away from their native religions while also guaranteeing their noticeable lack of legal rights. This created a distinct culture within New Orleans, the wider state of Louisiana, as well as other parts of the southern United States: the Afro-Creoles, who still held to their beliefs from their home borders despite being baptized against their will. The religion most associated with this time period was Voodoo.
Following the Louisiana Purchase, New Orleans became a nexus of growing immigrant interests from the Irish, Germans, Poles, and Italians. Notably, between 1791 and 1810, thousands of St. Dominican refugees from the Haitian Revolution poured into New Orleans. This great migrant wave was made up of both whites and free blacks, a number of which also brought their own slaves who were either directly from Africa or of full-blooded descent. With the revolution also scattering St. Dominicans to Cuba, these were instead turned towards New Orleans as well. For that period of nineteen years, the population of the port city doubled.
Even with this in mind, the scale to which the Crescent City would expand could not be accurately fathomed.
Into the 19th Century, New Orleans would become the largest slave market in the United States. Paradoxically, it was also the home to the largest population of free blacks in the nation who were often well-educated middle-class landowners.
During the American Civil War, New Orleans was occupied by the Union Navy and suffered under a period of starvation. This would only be compounded by Union General Benjamin F. Butler - whom the citizens took to calling "Beast" Butler due to an order he signed that included looting the populace, threatening their women with being prostituted, and the abolishment of the French language from being taught in schools. This, along with pressure from other European immigrants pushing into the city, would put significant strain on the city's earliest influences and eventually lead to the disbanding of the city's last major French newspaper: L'Abeille de la Nouvelle-Orléans. Due to having been captured early in the war, New Orleans was spared the majority of later Union aggressions and its central location in the southern United States proved pivotal to ending the conflict and bringing the legislation of the Emancipation Proclamation to fruition.
Racial tensions would continue to brew in New Orleans for decades just as it would throughout the wider country it became a cultural mirror to. Jim Crow laws would remain in effect from 1889 to 1960, spanning nearly a hundred years of segregation and prejudice that didn't end with just the erasure of a few words on paper. But just as those laws were left behind, New Orleans once more became a beacon of something new and beautiful. It became a center for the Civil Rights movement, its voice being heard across the South louder and clearer than practically any other.
The growing emergence of the Mutant gene has not gone unnoticed. This has spawned both a new kind of hate group and acceptance movement, either side geared towards putting up with a war of words over the consensus of humans, Mutants, and the continued societal evolution of the world around them. It's all just another chapter in the great story the city has left to tell.
New Orleans is a place where the people have struggled just as much as they've gotten rich off the suffering of others. It's a place where the tale of America is plain to see in the faces of the tired, the downtrodden, and the stubborn. For the most part, despite everything that's come their way, the folks down in the Paris of the South don't see life as an excuse to bend down and surrender to the circumstances. They see it as an expression of what it means to be Human, Mutant, or anything in-between.
The world ain't perfect. People ain't perfect. Just do what you can. Play a song or two over the rest, and get on with your living. That's all anybody can pray for, and that's all New Orleans has to do in order to keep the record spinning.
Notable Streets
- St. Charles Avenue
- At over five miles long and known for its iconic streetcar, it spans two neighborhoods in both downtown and Uptown
- Its history spans back to the 1830s where it was used to connect Carrollton downriver
- If you've ever seen a picture of the New Orleans Mardi Gras scene, it was more than likely taken on St. Charles Avenue
- Magazine Street
- A shopper's paradise, it is six miles of stores, food, and relaxation
- Even back in the late 1700s and early 1800s, Magazine Street was a bustling hive of commerce
- If there's something you want, Magazine Street has it
- Royal Street
- As the name implies, it is a more historically-inclined street with antique shops and museums galore
- Its lifeblood dates back to the early 18th Century, at the very beginning of the city's existence
- Despite its reputation as slower than Magazine Street, it is also home to numerous restaurants as well
- Frenchmen Street
- Once regarded as a hidden gem among locals, it is now internationally recognized as one of the best places for live music
- The street is allegedly named after five French patriots - or seditionists, depending on your view - who were executed in 1769
- With the dizzying array of options to explore, it is easy to forget that you don't have to stray far from the music to rest at a comfortable hotel
- Esplanade Avenue
- It is a quiet and humble place with a calming atmosphere amidst some of the wilder aspects of the city proper
- Back in the 19th Century, this was an important trade route between Bayou St. John and the Mississippi River
- Many mansions of the era still stand as part of an old, but handsomely groomed and maintained, "millionaire's row"
- Oak Street
- This is a hotspot for the college student life in New Orleans as well as local artists, writers, artisans, and musicians
- In the late 1800s, Oak Street served as the "Main Street" of the greater Carrollton area
- As of today, it is a functional and thriving network of small shops and independent business
- Canal Street
- It serves as a place for parading, shopping, and seeing shows at many of the city's restored theaters
- Canal Street once stood as "neutral ground" between the old French and Spanish families as well as for the newly arrived American families
- During Mardi Gras, the parade route can be crowded by up to a million people all packed together
- Julia Street
- Nicknamed "Gallery Row", it is yet another hotspot known for its extensive list of art collections and displays
- Once a part of the Warehouse District, Julia Street was simply a humble place for storage back in the 19th Century
- Every first Saturday, galleries open their doors to the public to premiere their new exhibits
- Bourbon Street
- Noisy, raucous, and nocturnal, this is the quintessential location in New Orleans for many people
- The history of Bourbon Street is as old as the city itself, dating back to 1718 and named after Rue Bourbon - part of the French elite at the time
- Among its many landmarks are the Royal Sonesta Hotel and the incomparable Galatoire's Restaurant
- Freret Street
- Flanked by the Loyola and Tulane universities, this is a popular area to find drinks, food, and live music
- Though the name existed since the 1800s, Freret Street was completely renovated in 2009 for commercial business
- Featuring multiple restaurants and bars honored on many Top 50 lists the world over, you can't go wrong with stopping to enjoy the scenery
- Fulton Street
- Once a nondescript collection of century-old brick warehouses, it was transformed in the 1980s when the New Orleans World's Fair arrived
- The history of it is much the same as many portions of the Warehouse District, though it didn't come into its own until its revitalization
- Its defining feature is a pedestrian-only outdoor mall extending for an entire city block, complete with bowling alleys and theaters
- Maple Street
- A humble location between the Uptown Loyola and Tulane universities, it is another popular destination and forum for local artists
- While more modernized, it is nevertheless an important piece in the moving clockwork of the city
- Maple Street is lined with quaint coffee shops, independent restaurants and bars, and possesses its own musical environment
- Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard
- Named after a New Orleans Civil Rights pioneer, it spans for ten blocks as part of a lively thoroughfare of food, music, and museums
- Oretha Castle Haley fought for the end to segregation and for equal voting rights, with the street being named after her in 1989
- The Boulevard offers a dizzying array of authentic award-winning cuisine from multiple areas of the city's past
- Harrison Avenue
- Nestled between Canal Boulevard and City Park, this street is the focal point of the Lakeview neighborhood
- As part of the Lakeview community, Harrison Avenue's history spans back to after World War II when families were reunited and grew
- Along with many other streets, it is known for its extensive list of restaurants, bars, and entertainment
- St. Claude Avenue
- Stretching from Marigny/Bywater to the Lower Ninth Ward, this street is line with food and drink and features its own unique nightlife
- St. Claude was once an old street revitalized by a post-Katrina influx of artists and new residents, breathing life once more into its stones
- Some of the best restaurants in the city are located here amidst humble museums and shops
- Bayou Road
- This street was formed to bridge the gap between Bayou St. John and the Mississippi River over 300 years ago
- Historically known as the first road to be laid in New Orleans, Bayou Road has never once stopped innovating
- Home to a plethora of black-owned businesses, there is nothing but love for any and all visitors here
Landmarks and Locations of Interest
- Congo Square
- Used by slaves and free blacks throughout the 19th Century as a place of expression, these grounds still hold power for music and Voodoo
- Jackson Square
- Welcoming over two million visitors for art, photography, and ceremonies, this is one of the premiere backdrops for life in The Big Easy
- St. Louis Cathedral
- One of the most recognizable features in the French Quarter, it is the mother church of the Archdiocese of New Orleans
- New Orleans City Park
- Ever since 1854, these 1,300 acres of vibrant greenery have brought in millions to appreciate the natural beauty of the city
- Laura Plantation
- Home to four generations of a prominent Creole family, both free and enslaved, it yet stands as an intimate historical museum
- Oak Alley Plantation
- Over 200 years, the property has been many things but now exists as a gallery for its complex past as well as an eerily beautiful estate
- Mardi Gras World
- Founded in 1947 by Blaine Kern, this is where 80% of the floats used during the world-renowned festival are designed and built
- The Cabildo
- Having served as the Spanish seat of government, this stands next to the St. Louis Cathedral as a historically significant museum
- Harrah's New Orleans Casino
- In celebration of the birthplace of the first gambling casino in America, Harrah's opened in 1999 with over 1,500 slots and 130 tables
- Steamboat Natchez
- This has been a favorite steamboat for over a hundred years, drawing in musical talents from all over the world to ride the Mississippi
- New Orleans African American Museum
- Located in Treme, the oldest surviving black community in America, it is dedicated to preserving and expressing the city's unique black culture
- The Backstreet Cultural Museum
- Another hotspot in Treme, this gallery displays the culture of the Mardi Gras Indians and handmade costumes costing upwards of $10,000 each
- Sazerac House
- Built just a few hundred yards from the original 1850 Sazerac Coffee House, this immersive cafe offers an unforgettable experience
- The Presbytère
- Once a courthouse designed like the Cabildo and built on the other side of the St. Louis Cathedral, it is now a showcase of Louisianan history
- The Music Box Village
- Uniquely contemporary, this art sculpture garden showcases local and national musicians at a venue where every house is an instrument
- Le Petit Theatre
- Established in 1916, "The Little Theatre of the Old Square" anchors the dynamic New Orleans entertainment hotspot scene
- The Orpheum Theatre New Orleans
- Over a hundred years old, this theatre welcomes anything from world-class performances to weddings and Mardi Gras balls
- Algiers Ferry
- Having been in operation since 1827, this lazy steamboat functions as one part local commute and one part historical tour
- Paddlewheeler Creole Queen
- An authentic steamboat featuring a luxury dining experience and live music along the Mississippi River with a day trip to Chalmette Battlefield
- Civic Theatre
- The oldest and one of the most respected theatres in the city, commissioned by Sam Stone in 1906 as a multipurpose venue
- Southern Food and Beverage Museum
- A non-profit living history organization dedicated to understanding and celebrating the unique food, drink, and related culture of the South
- Lafayette Square
- Named as such in 1825, it has been a pilgrimage site for school bands, jazz concerts, and aspiring musicians for over 150 years
- New Orleans Voodoo Musuem
- Ever since the 1700s, Voodoo has been an integral part of the culture of New Orleans and this location aims to preserve and tell its story
- Voodoo Spiritual Temple
- Established in 1990, it is the only "formally" recognized temple of its kind with a focus on West African spiritual and herbal healing
The Devil's Haunts
Some say that Lucifer himself walks the streets of New Orleans. He dances, he sings, he performs for the crowds. But his greatest lie has always been convincing the world he doesn't exist. Those who have seen him work know him by the quality of his craft. The Devil is not only alive in New Orleans; he calls it home.
"The Man with the Long Shadow don't stand still for no one."
- The Black Goat Nightclub
- Every once in a while, when the horns are quiet and the ice in the glasses of its patrons settles, this bar is host to a mysterious performer
- The Bad Beat Casino
- The Devil loves himself a good game, and there's no better place to roll dice than the luxurious riverside venue where chips crackle like embers
- Cloven Hoof Square
- Named for a large goat sacrifice in the 1700s, it has become synonymous with sightings of The Man in Red Pinstripes as he dances through
Other Such Businesses
- The Ivory Keys Hotel
- Famous for its collection of pianos, the centerpiece of which is rumored to be haunted, the hotel itself is luxurious if a tad unsettling at night
- The Forked Tongue Nightclub
- Themed in celebration of The King of Swing, this nightclub offers an unforgettable and downright heretical midnight experience
- The Drowned Sturgeon Bar
- The riverside dregs of society seem to flock to this place as if lured there by the constant slurred, rhythmic singing and drunken revelry
- The Thirsty Gator
- A humble restaurant near the French Quarter, it's a family-owned business that focuses on homecooked meals at an affordable price
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