Posted by Manbehindthewires (361 posts) - - Show Bio

Thought I'd blog a build of one of the latest Avengers models: The Iron Man Mark VII 1:9 scale model by Dragon.

The Mark VII is the Armour used by Stark in the later parts of the 2012 Avengers movie. Looks like this:

I picked up the Dragon Model Kit for this today at ModelZone for £29.99 (Roughly $45). Couldn't find a difficulty written for it anywhere on the box; I'd say beginner/intermediate looking at it. You'll need the basic-ish equipment to put it together (listed below), not too much patience, and not too much time required. I plan on spending an hour a day on it and having it done, painted, and finished in under 2 weeks. We'll find out if I can do it!

Also available are:

  • War Machine
  • Nick Fury
  • Black Widow
  • Thor
  • Hulk
  • Hawkeye
  • Captain America

The Kit:

The kit consists of 8 moulded, studded, plastic and rubber sheets of average quality; I've noticed a couple of minor defects in my kit, but nothing that can't be worked around or covered up. It also comes with a stand and some clear instructions for assembly and painting. Most of the plastic pieces are of quite a thick gauge and with rubber pieces for the more delicate/moveable parts, so it'll be pretty robust when finished.

Judging by the pieces; the shoulders, thighs and head will be pose-able (provided you're careful with the glue). For added fan-boy-ness, you get two choices of arc reactor; the triangle faceted Mark VI and the round Mark VII, and clear lenses for the chest and hand apertures (this may lead to another modification to it in the future...shhh!).

All in all, for £30 it's pretty good value for your own Iron Man :)

Stuff you'll need (minimum):

  • An exacto-knife or mini side-cutters
  • A fine file (2nd cut or smoother)
  • Modelling glue, preferably with a needle-tip
  • #8 Silver paint
  • #9 Gold paint
  • #30/#46 Clear Gloss
  • #90/#47 Clear Red paint

I'm planning on tweaking the paint a little on mine, but hopefully it'll eventually look something like this:

Wish me luck!
#1 Posted by Loki9876 (3325 posts) - - Show Bio

good luck :)

#2 Edited by Manbehindthewires (361 posts) - - Show Bio

@Loki9876: Thanks!

Time Spent: 1 Hour


Nice gentle start. I haven't made a model in years! Spent most of my time cutting out and filing down the pieces today and making sure they marry up nicely. The white lines at the joints in the image are just smoothed plastic; once parts are painted/glossed they'll look relatively seamless.

The build is pretty easy and has been set up to be fool-proof. Due to the keyways in the plastic it's impossible to place pieces the wrong way round, so if you struggle with the pictures, or are the kind of person who likes to build without instructions, it shouldn't be mess-uppable, and you can get to gluing straight away.

As mentioned earlier, a needle-tipped glue dispenser is ideal for models like this. Revell make a decent one.

Tech tip: I personally mix my glue with water and/or isopropynol; this makes the glue thinner and cure slower, so if you make a mistake, it can be wiped off without leaving a mark. When you're ready to let the glue harden, a quick (gentle) blast with a hairdryer or heat gun evaporates the isopropynol and sets the glue instantly, leaving a much thinner layer of glue between surfaces than you'd get with normal gluing, minimizing any visible production joints.

I'm liking this kit so far, I haven't made a model of a figure before, and this seems like a nice, easy starting point. The only danger at this point is leaving it too late to paint certain areas. Due to the overlapping parts (ie the kneecaps), painting may need to be done on some bits prior to assembly, so some forethought on the external parts may be required.

Next: The Torso!

#3 Posted by IcePrince_X (5053 posts) - - Show Bio

looking forward to your assemblage and execution of paint...this looks very interesting

#4 Posted by Manbehindthewires (361 posts) - - Show Bio

@IcePrince_X said:

looking forward to your assemblage and execution of paint...this looks very interesting

Thanks! Excited to get started on the paints. I've done little bits of painting in the past; small parts at work and model cars/retro toy repairs in my spare time, but nothing as intricate as a figure.

Due to the make-up of the torso, it looks like painting will need to start right away for best provided I can find the paints I want...base layers will start tomorrow! :)

#5 Edited by Manbehindthewires (361 posts) - - Show Bio


Hours spent: 2

I found out today that a friend of mine has picked up the exact same model...I thought he was building a Mark VI, (he loves dem triangles...) but he's also gone for a MKVII. No doubt he'll add some awesome twists to his, and they'll look nothing alike...but just to be safe, I've decided to give mine an Iron Patriot paint job :p

It's a different suit, but I'm going to try and get it painted as close to this scheme as possible:

For this reason I've had to make up my own colours (and guess their names):

Denim Blue Metallic: 5:1 Clear Blue/Titanium Silver

Fire Truck Red: 4:1:1 Clear Red/Titanium Silver/Gold

Patriot Silver: 2:1 Titanium Silver/Gold

Hopefully these will produce something similar to what's in the picture above, kind of brassy metallics.

Spent my hour today working on the torso, they aren't the snuggest fit, and will have to be glued under a clamp when the time comes. Also, some of the pieces haven't been intelligently moulded to the sheets, so cutting and trimming them has been a minefield of potential bent plastic and stress-raisers (those white marks you get when stressing plastic) so I spent most of my time diligently whittling away with a knife and file to keep the pieces in good nick.

After all of that all I really had time for, was to build this wee paint bay:

I'd like to paint everything individually, but haven't got that kind of time, and with this being a daily blog, I'd like to show progression. All of the torso parts have been lacquered up and I've taken my Denim Metallic paint for a spin...

Apologies for my terrible camera phone pics, I'll find something better to snap future stuff. In the light the blue shines really nice and metallic though, can't wait to gloss it! Only downside; I just used a basic frosted primer on this...probably should have used white, but since it's a darkish colour anyway I got away with it. I'll just have to stick an extra couple of coats on it tomorrow to be safe. I'll be using a white primer for the reds and silvers.

Tech Tip: The spray gun I have is a bit too powerful for lightweight plastics, and is typically used for die-casts, furniture and small car touch ups. By kinking the air line in one hand and holding the gun in the other, you can create a nice, controllable, variable flow, and adjust it by opening and closing you hand.

So far:

Next. Arc Reactor(s)!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Day 3-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Maaaaaaaay have used expired gold paint today...made a huge mess of one of the back pieces, so there'll be a "how to clean gunky expired paint out of model details" post in the near future. I need the gold for most of the spray work, so it'll just be progressing the actual pieces for today and tomorrow. Model is progressing nicely though!



Firstly, big thanks to @Xanni15 and @RazzaTazz for featuring this blog in the community spotlight last week! (link)

Apologies for not posting any progress over the past few days, after hitting a bump with the old gold paint (it was spraying out in strands like a spiderweb!?) I had to wait a couple of days for new paint and a little while to strip the bad paint off (description below).

ANYWAY! New HD Camera and new gold paint: with that; on with the project!

While I've been stuck with no painting to do, I didn't want to jump too far ahead with the actual I've turned my efforts to decorating the base:

I've been going for the glass-top effect, which I learned in the automotive trade, but thankfully it seems to work on paper!

This was made using cut-outs of Iron Man and Patriot for a couple of old copies of Marvel Previews...which is pretty thin, useless paper, but it's held up really well!

  • The clippings are stuck to each other using a very thin layer of spray Lacquer, literally 1 layer from around 12" away; anything heavier like a brushcoat, or glue or paste would probably turn the paper transparent, and since there's images printed on the other sides of'd probably look terrible.
  • Once layered and positioned, leave to dry for between 30-60 mins and coat in clear gloss.
  • Continue to spray a fresh layer of clear gloss every 30-60 mins for 5-6 layers.
  • The paper should be of a decent thickness by now, and there should be no "line" between the different clippings.
  • Leave overnight so the gloss can cure.
  • Take a 1000+ grit sandpaper/emery cloth (mines 2000) and delicately key the top surface of gloss until it's all a shade paler.
  • Dab off any dust with a damp-but-almost-dry cloth
  • Apply another layer of gloss and wait another 12-24 hours, then another light sand paper, clean and gloss as many times as you like.
  • In the picture I'm around 2 layers in, after around 10 it'll start to look like it has a layer of glass over the top of it. It's a really nice effect if you take your time on it!

Next up, removing the bad paint!

I have no pictures of it at it's worst, sorry; I was so ashamed of myself, I couldn't bring myself to capture it! The paint has completely clogged up all the detail on the back portion, and it looked un-salvageable.

I can't find the link I used, but s couple of geniuses out in the model-forum-world suggested using a Dettol solution. Not sure if Dettol is a UK only solution...if it is it's a chloroxylenol based antiseptic...the stuff tattoo studios stink of. I was advised to mix it 50/50 with cold water in a sealable container and leave the parts submerged in it for 24-48 hours. After 36 hours most of it just rinsed off under warm water! Whatever was left in the detailed parts was brushed out using a soft toothbrush and came out good as new :) the picture below shows the parts fresh out the mixture (left) and the other 2 pieces post warm-rinse. Really amazed with the results.

Now that everything is back on track, I'm gonna throw a few hours in tomorrow to catch up :) thanks for reading!